General Information

  • What is a hearth pad and why do I need it?

    Floor protection requirements are different for each stove. Basically, it is to protect combustible flooring from hot sparks and embers. Other hearth pads protect from heat\transfer by means of conduction or radiation.

  • What is the difference between Direct Vent and B-Vent?

    Direct Vent models have a sealed firebox that draws 100% outside air needed to fuel the fire. B-vent is vented vertically to the outside, but it does not draw outside air for combustion. Instead, B-Vent pulls room air to the firebox.

  • What does the fireplace term Zero Clearance mean?

    Zero clearance simply means “0” inches are required between the fireplace and combustible materials. However, we do recommend a 1/4″ space for expansion space because when metal heats, it will expand. Refer to each unit’s installation manual for detailed information.

  • Can I install my own fireplace/insert?

    In order to enjoy the benefits of most manufacturer’s warranties, we recommend using only factory-trained installers to install any type of fireplace or insert.

  • What is the difference between “Steady State” and AFUE?

    Steady State is an efficiency rating that tests the efficiency of the fireplace only when it is burning.
    AFUE: (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency) Both the on cycle and off cycle are calculated in this rating. By including the off cycles, a more accurate efficiency is determined.

  • Is it normal to have black soot build up on gas logs?

    Soot build-up on vented gas logs is a normal part of the combustion process, and usually adds to the realism of your log set. Natural gas log sets generally produce less soot than liquid propane log sets. Sooting is not normal on a vent-free gas log set, and if soot is present, the set should be inspected by a hearth professional to verify it is operating properly.

  • How do I clean my gas logs?

    If desired, soot may be removed by lightly brushing the logs with a soft-bristled paint brush. We do not recommend removing the logs from the fireplace for cleaning, as this may cause breakage. Do not scrub the logs with water or abrasive cleansers, as this will remove the coloring and chip off the bark texture, and will void your warranty. Do not attempt to clean your logs while the log set is hot!

  • Can I close my bi-folding glass doors while burning?

    No. Whether you’re burning gas logs or a wood fire in a masonry or zero-clearance fireplace, the glass doors must remain open to allow proper venting and prevent overheating. The tempered glass is not designed for high exposure to heat as this may cause the glass to explode.

  • What are BTU’s?

    British thermal units, BTU’s, represent the heat value of the gas fuel used to create heat. BTU values are determined by the quantity of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water, by one degree Fahrenheit.

  • How much heat do we need from our fireplace?

    A prospective gas appliance can be properly sized or “qualified” to your home based on many variables. Some, but not all of them, would be the size of the area, measured in cubic feet.  How cold is your climate? Is your home well insulated? Are you locating to a basement, or cooler area? Are there vaulted ceilings and ceiling fans, and so on. Many variables determine the correct amount of heat for an area or new home, and a local dealer can work with you, firsthand, to properly size the appliance.

  • What happens to my gas unit if I lose electricity?

    Gas fireplaces with standing pilots will still operate during a power outage. Blowers will not operate in an outage. Millivolt control switches, i.e. remote controls, wall thermostats, wall switch kits and the on/off rocker switch, will turn your fireplace on during a power outage.

  • Is it OK to shut the pilot off in the summer?

    Yes. Shutting off the pilot off in the summer saves gas. It will also reduce the buildup of dust, which can cause pilots to fail. All gas appliances should be serviced on a regular basis, which makes summer a good time to check and clean everything, including the pilot. If the pilot flame is yellow and the appliance shuts off, your pilot needs servicing because it is dirty. Qualified technicians or the dealer from whom you purchased the unit should perform service. Do not attempt to service the unit yourself.

  • I lost my manual. Can I obtain a new one from you?

    Yes! You may download a copy of current product manuals from this site free of charge. Simply register as a user and you’ll have access to all manuals and brochures for the products we carry.

  • How do I start a wood fire?

    1. Place firestarters, fatwood or crumpled newspaper (3 or 4 sheets balled up fairly tightly) on the floor or grate of your stove.

    2. Crisscross the kindling so there is plenty of air space in between each piece. Wood that is packed too tight will not burn properly.

    3. Place at least two half cut logs on top of the kindling front to back with about a 1″ air gap between the two.

    4. Put a piece of paper across the top of the larger logs.

    5. Make sure your damper is completely open and light the paper on top first. This will help produce proper air draft venting up the chimney on colder mornings.

    6. Once that has lit, begin to light the lower paper/firestarters.

    7. Close the door enough so that there is at least a 1″ gap still open and maintain a fully open damper for at least 20 minutes. This will allow the fire to begin burning the wood and spread.

    8. Once most of the initial wood begins to glow red and become coals, you can now add more wood and close the door.

    9. Wait until the stove box reads at least 300 degrees before you decrease the damper. This will bring the stove up to efficient burning. (Any temperature under 300 degrees can cause heavier creosote buildup)

  • How do I relight my pilot light on a gas fireplace?

    1. Open the lower grill and locate the gas valve; your valve may be located behind a ‘dashboard plate’ and that will not interfere with the lighting of your pilot light.

    *Before going on, be sure that your gas valve on the flex line and/or wall gas valve are in the on position.

    2. Locate the black knob on the left side (marked on/off/pilot). Push this button in and rotate counter-clockwise until the word “Pilot” lines up with the corresponding arrow.

    3. While pressing and holding in the black knob, press the RED igniter button repeatedly; the pilot will generally light with two or three pushes on the igniter.

    4. Once the pilot is lit, continue to hold the valve knob in for 30 seconds, then release the knob and it will pop back out. The pilot should remain lit. If it goes out, repeat steps 2-4. If the pilot light does not stay lit, contact a local service department.

    5. Next, press the same knob in slightly and turn the control counter clockwise until “On” is lined up with the same arrow as in step 2.

    6. To light your burner: Flip the black on/off toggle switch to the “On” position. If you are using a remote control or thermostat, you will need to leave the on/off toggle switch in the “Off'” position in order for either of these components to operate.

  • Can I repaint a mantel with a nitrocellulose base?

    As for painting over mantels, the paint is a nitrocellulose base, so any lacquer based material would work. However, do not prime it but instead scuff sand and finish. A poly finish over scuffed nitrocellulose base can usually give good results. Additionally, an oil based finish would definitely work. The key is to make sure the surface is prepped and ready to receive whatever finish is selected. Scuff sanding with a fine grit paper to get the surface prepped. A primer like Kilz will work and comes in a variety of paint compatible versions. A local paint shop confirmed that a good “gripper” primer that is water-based will work fine. The paint shop suggested a product called Adhero or Zinsser 123. Call your local paint professional and they will be able to recommend a primer that is water based that would go over the lacquer nitrocellulose based finish that is presently on the mantel.

  • Stove Bright high-temp spray paint user guide

    Stove Bright® User Guide

    Because of the high temperatures involved, stove paints are formulated to be used in particular ways. This guide contains instructions for proper use of Stove Bright® High Temperature Paint. Care in following the steps can help prevent the most common problems.

    Most stoves manufactured in the U.S. and Canada can be repainted with the Stove Bright® High Temperature Paint without problem. There have been rare instances where the paint formulation of the original equipment manufacturer was not compatible with Stove Bright®. Check with your stove manufacturer about the brand of paint used to coat the stove. Then call us (1-800-537-7201) to ask about paint compatibility with Stove Bright®. Another way to check compatibility is to test spray an area of your stove with Stove Bright® to see how it reacts with the original paint.

    If the stove paint is not compatible with Stove Bright®, or if the stove already has multiple layers of paint, then we strongly recommend removing the paint by sandblasting or sanding down to metal.

    There are 3 basic steps to paint your stove or stove pipe with Stove Bright® High Temperature Paint:

    I. Prepare the surface

    II. Apply the paint

    III. Cure the paint
    The most critical step is surface preparation. The paint will only adhere as well as whatever is already on the stove. If the stove is rusted, and you do not remove all of the rust, then the paint will adhere to the rust and fail. If the stove has a coating that is peeling, blistering, or chalking, then the new topcoat will release from the stove in the same way. If the stove has grease, oil, dirt or any other contaminant on it, then the paint will not adhere to the metal of the stove.

    I. Prepare the surface for paint

    1. Remove oil, grease, graphite, or other hard to remove contaminants. We have found Lacquer Thinner, Toluene, or Acetone to be effective against the toughest surface contaminants.

    WARNING: Lacquer Thinner, Toluene and Acetone are HIGHLY FLAMMABLE. Do not use near open flame or in close proximity to anything that might spark. Turn off all appliances, extinguish pilot lights, and put out all source of flame.

    HEALTH WARNING: Lacquer Thinner, Toluene and Acetone give off vapors that are harmful. Do not breathe these vapors. Read and follow all instructions for product use, especially regarding eye protection, skin protection and breathing protection.
    2. To remove greasy finger prints, light dirt and dust, or simply for your final wipe down before applying the paint, the easy to use Stove Bright® Paint Prep is a good choice.

    3. In any areas where solvents cannot be used in the cleaning process you can use the brand Dirtex in aerosol or the brand Windex.

    CAUTION: Do NOT use products like Formula 409 or a “tack cloth” sold in many paint stores, because these products leave a residue that inhibits the adhesion qualities of Stove Bright® High Temperature Paint.
    4. Remove ALL rust. We recommend sandblasting, sanding, or grinding to remove rust.

    Extra effort in surface preparation leads to the best chance for a durable, beautiful finish.

    Trouble-shooting for surface preparation: Paint coming off the surface in large patches indicates a problem with surface preparation. The best remedy is to remove all the paint, prepare the surface again and repaint. If rust is not removed completely before painting, rust will reappear on the newly painted surface over time. Painting over rust with Stove Bright® High Temperature Paint does not stop oxidation. That is why it is critical to remove all of the rust before painting.

    II. Apply the paint
    The application of Stove Bright® High Temperature Paint requires some care to get the best results. There are some common techniques for using any aerosol paint and there are details specific to using Stove Bright® in aerosol.

    1. Shake the can for 2 minutes to completely mix the paint pigment, metallic and solvents for the best uniform finish when sprayed. Most folks simply don’t shake Stove Bright® long enough.

    WARNING: The vapors and propellant coming from the aerosol can are HIGHLY FLAMMABLE. Extinguish all flames and keep away from sources of spark when spraying.

    HEALTH WARNING: Vapors are harmful if breathed directly. Use the product in a well-ventilated area. Use eye protection to avoid accidental contact with spray. Wear gloves and appropriate clothing to avoid skin irritation due to contact with the solvents and other chemicals in the paint.
    2. BEFORE you spray the paint on the stove or stove pipe note the following:

    a.Best results are achieved when the paint, the surface of the stove and the air temperature are above 65° F and below 85°F. You can warm a cold can of paint (from warehouse storage or left in a service truck in cold temperatures) by running hot tap water over it for two minutes. Do not over heat the can or expose it to open flame of any kind.
    b.Be sure the area is well-ventilated, that all open flames have been extinguished and that you are wearing appropriate protection for spraying the paint.
    c.Test spray on a piece of cardboard to be sure the paint is ready for use. Often the first spray from an aerosol can is mostly propellant with very little pigment. This test spray will bring the well-shaken paint mixture to the tip ready for your first pass on the surface.
    3. Two light coats are better than attempting one heavy coat.

    4. Paint should be sprayed from about 12 to 18 inches.

    5. The paint typically dries to touch in about 20 minutes. When doing two light coats as recommended above, you can apply the second coat after about 15 minutes. The paint will actually “air cure” in about 48 hours. The paint is formulated to be heat cured for the long-lasting, durable, heat-resistant finish you expect from Stove Bright® High Temperature Paint.

    Trouble-shooting paint application:
    If the paint peels or looks like shattered glass and comes off in thin strips, this is an indication that too much paint was applied. The best remedy for this condition is to remove as much of the paint as possible, wipe down the surface (as described in surface preparation) and repaint; taking care to apply the paint in two light coats while spraying from at least 12 inches from the surface (but not farther than 18” from the surface).

    If the finish is textured or gritty, it indicates dry spray occurred during application. This happens when the spray tip is too far from the surface, and the paint actually partially dries in the air before reaching the surface. The best remedy for this condition is to sand off the gritty areas, wipe down the surface (as described in surface preparation) and repaint; taking care to apply a light coat from a distance of less than 18 inches from the surface of the stove (but not closer than 12” from the surface).

    III. Cure the paint 1.Build a small kindling fire to start.
    2.Add fuel to build a medium size fire to bring the stove surface temperature to about 450°. 3.Keep the medium size fire going for about 60 minutes. 4.For the second stage of curing, add fuel to this fire to make it a very hot fire (surface temperature above 600°F) and keep it at this level for about 45 minutes.
    NOTE: During the second higher temperature burn phase there will be some smoke and unpleasant odor. To mitigate this effect, ventilate the room with open windows and doors to provide airflow. The smoke is NOT toxic. HEALTH WARNING: The smoke from the curing process displaces oxygen. Small children, elderly folks and persons with existing breathing problems should vacate the area during the hot burn to avoid the discomfort of lost oxygen. The smoke is primarily Carbon Dioxide, and therefore nontoxic but uncomfortable. Trouble-shooting paint curing:
    Take care to build slowly to the medium temperature fire. Building a hot fire immediately will “shock” the paint and cause it to release from the surface. The only remedy to this problem is to remove the paint, prepare the surface for repainting, and repaint.

    To avoid problems during the curing process, do not touch the surface with anything until the paint is fully cured. If something touches the surface during the curing process, the remedy is to sand and clean the area and repaint.

    Cured paint will be flat in terms of gloss. Many of the colors of Stove Bright® High Temperature Paint contain metallic flake, giving a nice reflective quality to the finish.

    Can won’t spray paint?
    There are several reasons why an aerosol can of paint doesn’t spray:

    1.The aerosol tip is clogged with dried paint.
    2.Paint pigment has separated from solvent and is clogging the draw tube of the valve.
    3.Can is no longer effectively charged with propellant, so there is no pressure to force the paint up through the valve.
    4.Paint is old and has separated from the solvent and cannot be re-mixed.

    1. To clear the clogged tip:

    a. Be sure paint can is at room temperature (let it sit for several hours in 70° room or place can in hot tap water for 2 to 3 minutes)

    b. Shake the can vigorously for at least 90 seconds. This is a long time to shake a can and requires some patience and effort to get the job done.

    c. Remove the old regular spray tip and insert the new regular tip (black).

    d. Turn the can upside down and spray a test on cardboard … if the can sprays, then be sure the spray is clear (only propellant). This will mean your tip is clear and ready for use. If no spray comes out, or if the spray sputters, it indicates a clog in the draw tube.

    2. To clear the draw tube you should:

    a. Be sure paint can is at room temperature (let it sit for several hours in 70° room or place can in hot tap water for 2 to 3 minutes)

    b. Shake the can vigorously for at least 90 seconds. This is a long time to shake a can and requires some patience and effort to get the job done.

    c. Remove the regular spray tip and insert the clear-out tip (green).

    d. Spray the paint on test cardboard for several seconds until the paint appears to flow freely.

    e. Replace the clear-out tip with a new regular tip.

    f. Turn can upside-down and press trigger until no paint comes out (only propellant).

    3. No propellant in the can

    a. The easiest test for this is to squeeze the can. If the sides of the can give way easily (like an empty soda pop can) then there is not enough propellant to drive the paint out of the can.

    b. See you dealer for a replacement can of paint.

    4. Old paint.

    a. Look at the bottom of the can for a date and batch number.

    b. If the date is more than 3 years past, then it is possible the product is too old.

    c. Get a replacement can